The Pudding Club: Miller & Carter review

With a few of our writers pregnant at the mo, we decided to introduce a new (sort of self-explanatory) foodie section. This week we review Miller & Carter Steak House in Epping.

SM reviewer writes: I recall (when pregnant with child number 1) reading Pamela Druckerman’s ‘Why French Children Don’t Throw Food’ which poignantly stated that French mothers-to-be only gained around 10kg and slinked into frothy underwear nightly (possibly with a sip or two of Pol Roger from a ‘proper’ glass in a manicured hand). During ‘la grossesse’ of enfant deux I spent a few months in France, thinking I would nibble on a Sables biscuit and drink Perrier – but nothing of the sort happened. Enfant Deux was hungry, I was cold (and mon mari tucking into the vin rouge in front of me didn’t help my moodswings). It was a cheese and baguette frenzy. So now, at the dawn of Enfant Trois (or, The Last One) I’ve vowed to roll with the punches, eat what my body is asking for – and scribble a few reviews here and there when the service is good, the food hits the spot and by and large the restaurant can cope with my unruly brood tagging along.

Miller & Carter in Epping Forest is a stand alone steakhouse. The sort of place that despite being amidst rambling country-walk territory, one most definitely drives to. It’s the kind of steak vibe that was big in the 90s (ie retro decadent) rather than the latest meat-wave vogue for chowing down on a side of cow on a slab of marble.

Personally, I am gagging for iron, protein and for someone to discover a foodstuff that my two year old (who has been off nursery for best part of a week now with a vomiting bug, been ‘clear’ as it were for two days but the school policy insists he stay home, yadda yadda…) might actually like to eat.

They actually offer a two course lunch deal (which, to my sleep addled nappy brain needs some explaining) – the gist is that you can add in another course for £3. Collectively we ordered two burgers, chicken wings, cheesy garlic mushrooms, bread and oil – plus a side plate for my two year old.

The bread arrived along with the mushrooms and chicken – we can’t quite recall which dish actually came with the side order of melted blue cheese, but everything got dipped into it – including enthusiastic  toddler fingers. Doubtless no food groups were represented but it was amazing. (And if anyone’s going ‘blue cheese!’ and doing that shakey head finger wave thing right now, rest assured, the blue cheese in the sauce – along with the mayo I slathered on my chips – had definitely come direct from a chain retailer and not from some rural farm devoid of pasteurization) 

Main course burgers were fairly substantial (again, not those sort of burgers you win food challenges for eating that have become popular) and the chips were double fried, salty… definitely not soggy french fries.

Image: Miller & Carter

Obviously another crucial part of pregnancy is needing to pee all the time and the loos here were pretty sparkly clean, with nice Baylis & Harding handwash.

If I wasn’t pregnant I would probably come back and order the Steak Hache with a large glass of Pinot Noir (and maybe a cocktail to start). And if they delivered to my house at 3 in the morning I’d probably be ordering the rose sugar glazed lemon tart…

Book a table online here.